Rolland Liccione is one of the last of the old guard. I spent a month in Chicago on my way west staging in any place that would have me. The days here were fascinating. Stories of Bocuse, Gerard, Troigros, Girardet-and on and on. His handling of game birds was humbling. I don’t know if the fact that he got 4 stars in the time I was there had anything to do with me but…I like to think so.